Gun Airbrush Model

August 30, 2006 by  
Filed under Die Cutting Machines and Supplies

At Die Cut Machines your source for Die Cutting Machines and Crafting Supplies we hope the Gun Airbrush Model products and information here meets your needs.

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this airbrush is cheap - do you think it will work well?

i only want to buy my first air brush to paint model horses - do you think that this one will work okay for that much money and also, would i only need to buy a tube and a compressor to go with it or are there other things i would need to?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Air-Brush-130A-airbrush-Model-Body-Paint-Tool-spray-Gun_W0QQitemZ140369551033QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH?hash=item20aead5eb9#ht_2226wt_991

This is a China made knockoff of an Iwata HP-C. At the price, even a Chinese fake HP-C is going to be worth it. The real thing is at least 10x more. The quality is probably passable. Hope you are buying the same item as shown in that image. Sometimes the image is not what you get. Ask the seller.

You will need a hose, air source (compressor or air tank), pipe cleaners, a brush holder, paint, little bottles or jars to mix and store colors, extra needles, a plastic bottle with a fine tip to use for blowing water through the gun to clean the brush.

You also need something to blow the gun into that catches the bulk of the exhausted spray. I went to a hardware store and found things that worked. Basically I had a long tube of non-porous foam rubber that I shot the gun into. That hose fed into a box that contained pieces of regular foam rubber and towels loosely piled up to catch the spray. You do not want to blow this into your breathing air space. Enough gets into the air when painting as it is. You ought to use a charcoal mask as well. The paint particles will clog your lungs if the chemicals do not poison you somehow.

You also need a piece of board, cardboard or illustration board next to your easel to test sprays on. The gun does not spray predictably every time and you need to practice and test often before making each addition to the actual artwork.

Brushes often clog up. There are flow releasers (like Golden Acrylic Flow Release*)that help prevent this without diluting the binder in the paint. There are also cleaners you can blow through the gun yet limit the use of these because they are not good to breath in. Water alone can work. Only use the cleaners if the paint does not blow out completely and only if you have a trap set up that works like the one I described.

Also keep an old bristle artist's paint brush around to gently brush the tip of the airbrush where the most paint accumulates and dries. The friction will reduce the amount of air and water needed to clean the brush. I brushed the tip when I saw paint accumulating and often did not have to thoroughly clean the brush at the same time. This allowed me to continue painting uninterrupted.

*Golden Acrylic Flow Release:
http://www.goldenpaints.com/technicaldata/flreleas.php

How To Weather Model Train Scenery

When it comes to weathering, most people only consider the trains and not the model train scenery. If you are purchasing buildings from a store, you will want to weather them as well in order to keep with the appearance. After all, it will look odd for the weathered train to be traveling through a pristine environment. If the train is traveling through the city, the train and the city should both look just as worn by smog and graffiti artists in order to make it look as real as possible.

The first thing you can do in order to weather model train scenery is to use a mixture of paint thinner and a dark gray paint. This paint should be mixed into an airbrush gun in order to spray a light coat of paint that looks like it has been accumulating for years. The best way to apply the paint is in wide sweeping motions side to side. Make sure the room is well ventilated before attempting anything of this sort. For best results, do not try to finish the weathering all at once. Apply one coat, allow it to dry and then apply a second coat. Use as many coats as you feel necessary to create just the right look.

Another city element you may want to add to your model train scenery is graffiti. You can buy different pieces of graffiti from the hobby shop, or online. The graffiti you buy will be in a decal form, so you may want to spray it with the same formula you used on the building it will be on. This will cover the edges and give the graffiti the worn look it usually has in the city. Graffiti is also a good addition to trailer cars. It gives the appearance the cars have been docked in the city rail station for a period of time.

Rail stations that are a part of desert scenery should have a look as if they have seen many different sand storms over the years. A good way to accomplish a sand worn appearance is to shoot sand at the structure. Mix together fine grain sand and water in the bowl of your airbrush gun and use it to blast the structure. Sanding the structure may be too harsh as you can simply scrape the paint off rather than adding a look of wear. Another good element in these conditions is to airbrush on a medium brown color to the metal roof in order to give the rusted over look expected in the climate.

Creating realistic looking model train scenery is an endeavor every model railroader has. It is a skill, which has to be learned over time in order to get it exactly right. The best way to learn is to find as much information as possible about weathering and creating your own structures. Practicing what you learn is the ultimate way to learn. Have fun and explore new ideas you may have in order to decide which methods work best for you.

About the Author

David Blackburn has had a passion for Model Trains for over 20 years. His enthusiasm and knowledge on the subject of model trains can be found in his writing and his new book. For more great information on model train scenery visit his site at: http://www.modeltrainsadvice.com. While you are there make sure you sign up for his FREE "Secrets
To Successful Model Railroading" Mini Course.

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