Personal Electronic Cutter

July 21, 2010 by  
Filed under Die Cutting Machines and Supplies

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What is the difference between these two?

Ok so I was at Wal-mart.com and I wanted to buy a machine for my album cuts and cricket are two, but one was cheaper in the other what is the difference between these two: $ 253.54 Electronic Cricut Expression Machine cutting (Includes 2 cartridges) and http://www.walmart.com/ip/The-Cricut-Create-Personal-Electronic-Cutter/10983293 ... $ 149.00 The Cricut Create Electronic Cutter http://www.walmart.com/ip/Cricut-Expression-Personal-Electronic-Cutting-Machine-Includes-2-Cartridges/8000344

The Cricut Expression machine is much greater than the Cricut Create Personal Electronic Cutter or Cricut. Cricut Expression is the largest cutting machine Family of Cricut cutting machines. It uses the same cartridges, housings of the blade, and blades, knives as portable, but he intends to stay in desk. Cricut personal cutter is smaller and more portable, ideal for reception cards, scrapbooks, and the role of art, the machine uses a cartridge-based system to cut thousands of beautiful letters, shapes and phrases in a variety of sizes and styles with the touch of a button. Simply connect the material cut the rug cut stickers included, the load on the machine, insert cartridge, make a selection cutting and clipping. site mentioned there were better prices you mentioned, you can check. pleasure craft!

printing plate to take advantage of digital negatives - The Concise Guide - Part 2 / 7

Part 2 / 7 - Equipment.

Do Negative:
computer with Photoshop .............................................. ......... should already have
inkjet printer ............................................ .. ..................... and must

Darkroom / Printing:
UV unit ................................................ ............................ DIY / Suppliers Electrical Equipment
Contact printing frame .............................................. . ......... DIY
1.5 "Brush for washing machine (the best quality of art is not ).............................. store or online at low prices
Short Glass, 2 ml syringes ........................................... . . ....... hardware / pharmacy
Amber bottles .............................................. ... Bostick &Sullivan;
Dryer ................................................ . ............................. Hardware & DIY
................................................ Blotter ................... local art shop
Timer ................................................ E ................ Shops / Online
Mechanical Timer ................................................ ............... darkroom equipment. / Online provider
5 trays, 2 clips ............................................. .................. darkroom equipment. supplier
Drying ................................................ ...................... DIY
Scales ................................................. ........................... eBay Stores /

air heating .............................................. . ................... supplier of bathroom furniture
Press ................................................ . ............................ DIY / Hardware

Spotted:
Scalpel (good quality )............................................ . .......... computer frame. supplier
Lupa (large )............................................. Photo Size ................ equipment. supplier
0000 brush (good quality )........................................... . art shop ......

Installation:
Cup Monte ............................................... . .................. computer frame. supplier

As you can see something too difficult find. If you have Photoshop (you do not need the latest version, of course, any version will do), other graphics programs are less expensive or free. To print, I would say that the ink will today flew to the height. Since Epson will discuss generalized curve should work on any model of Epson UltraChrome (economically Epson R 800/1800).

So assuming that you already have a computer with Photoshop and a printer, the question is more expensive UV unit. It's easy to make and took less than a weekend to build it. I made a simple wooden frame, and then I used 10 x 450mm Philips UV lamps connected to each ballast and choke, which is the minimum 8x10 inches. In ordering these materials also provide clues to the wiring, a switch, some fans young and old (as those inside of a PC from the power and CPU) and the installation of plastic ampoules. Fans are recommended but not mandatory.

There is little or no welding and diagrams are very simple. This is the detailed list of parts:

10 15 W lamp length 450 mm (or more) 1 "wavelength of 365 nm diameter of the G13 CAP
10 15W ballast (also called ignition / starter)
10 Starter for fluorescent lamp
10 members for beginners
20 Lamp
1 Turn
A fan of the computer power supply 110/220V
CPU 12V 2 fans
1 Power 12V
cables 1 The fluorescent wiring

These lamps are often called lamps bugs or black light lamps. Make sure that the wavelength is approximately 350/365nm. I'm not sure if the tanning lamps are good for us because They are about 300 nm.

The wiring is very easy. Connect the starter two pins at the end of the tube. On the other two pins free, it goes directly to food (N), the other goes to the ballast and power (H). So, just an easy wiring will be repeated ten times. Note that the ballast double that feed two fires there, there five of them. However, I tried and did not work for me, so I stuck to a lamp ballast.

The firm is composed of two pieces of MDF. The bottom, with a sliding tray and only three vertical frames, and a hinged front for access. The upper part, which contains fire and the other "electronic" lugs bottom to top. I can put spacers, turning off lights more, or I can delete some wood for download. However, the distance between lamps (15W x 10 = 150 W) is 4 inches which gives me the time of exposure I (~ 4 minutes).

At the top there is a small power supply that feeds a pair of 12V CPU fan on top to take the pressure off the weight. As there is a greater number of 110/220, because the heat is there too. The set is is very heavy. One thing I have not painted the inside is white, but as he said I was happy with my time of exposure as was. The lamps are very close (5 mm). In many years of use, I have never replaced a lamp or another component, and despite the "house" Look, a base unit because it will serve you well.

The following is to establish ourselves as part of the printing contact, which is nothing but a wooden plate covered with a sheet of rubber and a glass top. To prevent uneven pressure, use a heavy glass (heavier than you) secured by clips giant eight strengths everywhere. No need to buy one of those expensive "process substitution" Contact Center hinge frames, they are to inspect the impression in the sun. Avoid fancy hinge side and you will discover that nothing editor May 25 in the center (or elsewhere) are not vivid impressions. Remember that one of the beauties of the contact print is the sharpness, but the impression can not Pt-Pd have the same sharpness that money contact prints on paper. Before printing on platinum has been used contact prints on silver and Newton's rings have always been a problem. Since I switched to platinum, the problem has disappeared, probably because of the raw paper I suppose. Anyway, I do not need to buy expensive goggles anti-Newton.

The rest of the equipment needed in the darkroom is more or less directly, an important issue is the brush. I like the edge Grumbacher Gold (size 1.5-inch), which is perfect for coating 4x5 to 11x14 and more. This brush has metal parts to corrode. In my case, I use mine nearly three years. I do not recommend a brush washing cheap (too thin), and Japanese brushes seem attractive because the metal parts is expensive and, but not really work and also let tons of sows. Finally, my opinion on the coated glass rods is: do not buy, just use a brush.

At this stage, before you start buying and construction needed to take your mind on the size you want to print. Many books recommend 4x5 for beginners, this is for me is not good advice, so that you can not easily assess the short-run. Personally, I find small prints even more difficult to make large prints. On marketing perspective and, in general, not just 4x5 "prints are often ignored, but many collectors find 8x10" minimum size for purchase. Therefore, I would go directly to 8x10 "and stay there, even when printing" professional "or at least until a true master. It is a convenient format, which requires no coating well and is ideal for mounting 13x15 "or 16x20" and so both sold by mail. It is also a good compromise between size and cost of printing and mounting plate. With a sheet standard mounting plate can be made at any time, three 13x15 "mounts or two 16x20" mount (mount more) with little waste. If you choose to 8x10 " you need a little more trays, but not too much: I can print my 8x10 "Image 10x12" paper or less, it is not necessary to leave a border around the image above to kill them all modes. Undoubtedly, large 10x20 "or 11x14" prints platinum are something to see, so for this reason, one thing who was to build large aircraft is UV. Mayor lights do not cost much more in the future and if you really want to try more impressions trays end up buying again and make a contact print frame.

The five rays in the shopping list are for developers, bathrooms compensation (three plates) and the fifth is a laundry tub. This will be bigger than the other (however, always wash impression at a time). It is easy to do: to Finally, make a hole in each vertical side, facing each other just below the upper edge. Pass through holes in a rigid plastic pipe (I used one at a toy), which has already provided will be equal to the distance (1 / 2 inches) in diameter. Connect tubing from the tap on the side of tube. Close the other side with a cork. You have a machine at low prices.

You make a drying unit for coating plates (Not for final output, which is allowed to dry overnight). Just bought one of the heaters hot-air baths, that I climbed on the roof of a house just a box made of wood. The box has one side of the device and the background mesh to allow air and moisture to escape. I just threw the freshly coated paper in the bottom and warm air drying in minutes or less. Do not use a hair dryer, its heat is too concentrated and also tend to spew particles (the engine) in the document. Drying the final print is not a problem. With a little more plastic mesh (purchased from a garden center, which also have rubber sheets to fill the frame contact printing) I made four or five barges very basic, stacked one above the other about 8 inches apart.

The last of the list is a cold press to flatten prints. If you leave the impression of planes in a stack of books is not very professional! I used a large piece of thick MDF for the base, then made a sort of large flat box the same size as the base two handles on top, inside to multi-box fitted sheets (purchased from manufacturers or suppliers from the ceiling) that will allow a very heavy top. Between the top and base, 5 or 6 leaves of size of the board of acid free mounting of the base / flatten to allow coverage of 15-20 jobs at the same time. And overnight it flat enough to prints, two days is even better (which is important because we want to go with the tabs in the corner, ie not attached of course).

There are two counters on the list. I usually use a digital format (with alarm) to expose the printing (if I do Can not explain) and conventional (analog) in the wet darkroom to see the development and remuneration and hours of washing.

In the darkroom, they do not need red or yellow darkroom light normal gelatin silver. I use two tungsten bulbs 40 watts, one normal and one blue. I can use two separate switches so you can see the color of the print in conditions similar to the light day (blue light) or a combination of members of both. Finally, the evaluation of printing can not, however, when it is wet.

You do not need a densitometer or a corner crossing (unless you want to print the traditional negative).

Buy a little dark brown bottles of B & S, I buy six 100 ml Cap normal and 12 small bottles with lids 25ml dropper. You will use seven small "of Working bottle (Pd, Pt, sensitizing, Na2 x 4) when printing, and the other will be used to store mixed solutions are used to feed the work rolls.

The scale must be very precise, I use a numerical scale to 50 grams of prepared metals, and not as accurate for mixing chemicals for developers.

Long is made with a scalpel rather (as Swann-Morton with the level Mango "3" and let C10) and a good quality brush small. The lens must be large enough to allow work with both eyes open.

You'll need a cutter assembly. I use a Logan fancy anything, but it will do very well. I bought the model " intervening years "a lot and then I made several changes to improve it (such as stops, etc..) Store upright or flat, otherwise the chain. I use a new blade for almost all sessions of the Assembly. Before being discarded, the leaves used are recycled for some time on the knife (Logan low purchase price) that is used to cut full-size tables. To do this, you will need a rule (expensive) or you can use the same court setting, that I recommend. In this case, you can buy a mount cut wide enough to cut full sheets.

Much Beginners often consider leaving the assembly work to a local framer: please do not do that. They are very expensive and for worse, often do not do a good job, much less inconvenience for fingerprints, collect the work later, etc. Also the work must be very precise because if you sell prints mounted (ie no frame) people have in their hands and see all the bugs. I also recommend buying a low cost "polished stone", used to flatten the raised edges around the Mount, so that their customers do not sit with your fingers when holding print mounted. The last reason to go is that if you follow my advice also numerous articles on the cover of black brush strokes with the assembly completed You can use the window bevel to provide some adjustment minutes late harvest image. See Part 6 for more details on the assembly.

A final thing you'll need to relax! Especially if you print money, can benefit from the switch. Platinum printing is much more natural and so relaxation. After several years of traditional silver print (enlargement and continuous contact), I found that Session printing plate is generally more pleasant. Another big advantage when printing from the digital negative you can be sure, even before entering the dark room, the feeling it will be good and only minor adjustments are needed.

Part 3 / 7 review the materials.

About the Author

Luca Paradisi has been an internationally collected artist and fine art printmaker for many years. For more fine art photography inspiration you can visit his web site at www.artblackandwhite.com where he shows his work which includes landscapes, still life, abstracts, and architectural.

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